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Christian Dior克里斯蒂安-迪奥的华丽装饰品在20世纪40年代末和50年代的世界市场上占据了主导地位

时间: 2023-05-01 广州迪奥饰品

克里斯蒂安-迪奥珠宝
作为世界时尚界最伟大的立法者,克里斯蒂安-迪奥的华丽装饰品在20世纪40年代末和50年代的世界市场上占据了主导地位。克里斯蒂安-迪奥(1905-1959)出生于法国诺曼底,在20世纪30年代中期开始了他的职业生涯,向巴黎的高级时装店出售帽子和裙子的草图。同时,是高级时装店的设计师Jean Ozenne将迪奥介绍给了时尚界和他的客户。因此,在30岁的时候,迪奥致力于研究时装画,只参考他所知道的和欣赏的爱德华-莫利纽斯、可可-香奈儿、艾尔莎-希亚帕雷利和让-朗文。幸运的是,他成功地将他的第一张帽子草图,然后是裙子的草图卖给了时尚的制帽商和高级时装店。此外,他还成功地将想法卖给了外国买家。此外,他在《费加罗报》上发表的画作使他第一次得到了公众的认可。

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Christian Dior jewellery
The greatest legislator of world fashion, Christian Dior magnificent decorations dominated on the world market in the late 1940s and 50s. Born in Normandy, France, Christian Dior (1905-1959) began his career in the mid-1930s, selling sketches of hats and dresses to Parisian couturiers. Meanwhile, it was Jean Ozenne, designer for couture houses, who introduced Dior to the fashion world and to his clientele. So, at the age of thirty, Dior devoted himself to studying fashion drawing, referring only to what he knew and appreciated of Edward Molyneux, Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Jeanne Lanvin. Luckily, he managed to sell his first sketches of hats and then of dresses to fashionable hat makers and couture houses. In addition, he managed to sell ideas to foreign buyers. Besides, publication of his drawings in Le Figaro contributed to his first public recognition.


Pearl crystal earrings

1937年,服装设计师罗伯特-皮格(Robert Piguet)选择了他的四件设计,并要求他为其 "半成品"(季中系列)制作。克里斯蒂安-迪奥当时只有32岁,他说,这些是 "我真正创造的第一件衣服"。他的New Look系列是一个真正的发现。人们看到了他们在战后所缺少的东西。每个系列的衣服都被命名,例如 "幸福"、"温柔"、"爱"。

In 1937 the couturier Robert Piguet selected four of his designs and asked him to produce them for his “half-collection” (mid-season collection). Christian Dior was just thirty-two, and these were, he said, the “first dresses that I really created.” His collection New Look was a real discovery. People saw what they were missing in the postwar years. Each dress of collection was named, e.g. “Happiness”, “Tenderness”, “Love”.


Red Coral and black Clips

与他的当代设计师不同,他们用不显眼的、适度的产品来装饰衣服,迪奥的珠宝是他的系列中的一个强制性细节。他的早期作品具有独特的特点。他的客户包括温莎公爵夫人、玛格丽特公主、伊丽莎白-泰勒、玛琳-黛德丽、玛丽莲-梦露、格洛丽亚-吉尼斯、伊娃-佩隆。后来的作品是在授权下生产的,而且数量大得多。1947年2月,"新面貌 "系列在巴黎向公众展示。

Unlike his contemporary designers, who decorated clothes with unobtrusive, modest products, Dior jewellery was a mandatory detail of his collection. His early works had exclusive character. Among his clients were the Duchess of Windsor, Princess Margaret, Elizabeth Taylor, Marlene Dietrich, Marilyn Monroe, Gloria Guinness, Eva Peron. Later works were produced under license and in much larger quantities. Collection “New Look” was shown to the public in Paris in February 1947.


Christmas bell earrings of gold tone, rhinestones

20世纪30年代末,在伦敦,美国人Mitchel Maer创建了一家生产珠宝的公司,被称为 "金属塑料",后来成为 "Mitchel Maer"。克里斯蒂安-迪奥(Christian Dior)给了迈尔一个许可证,让他为迪奥时装屋生产珠宝,在接下来的四年里,迈尔为 "迪奥 "制作了几件精美的珠宝。他的花卉构图和图案,如独角兽胸针,在今天是非常罕见的。

In London, in the late 1930s, the American Mitchel Maer created a company for the production of jewelry known as the “Metal-plastic”, later “Mitchel Maer.” Christian Dior gave Maer a license to produce jewelry for Dior fashion house, and in the next four years, Maer made several fine jewelry for “Dior”. His floral compositions and motifs, such as the unicorn brooches are very rare today.


Fly Vintage clips. Gold tone alloy, rhinestones, crystals

与Mitchel Maer一起为迪奥公司工作的还有Henkel、Gross Kramer(纽约)--1950-60年代最好的珠宝商之一。迪奥也是以自己的名字制造珠宝而闻名。迪奥对法国的花园和乡村风景的热爱导致了野花、玫瑰和百合的重复性花卉图案的出现。动物、鱼和独角兽形式的装饰品--真正的设计艺术杰作,而且非常罕见。大多数迪奥珠宝都有日期,并有一个标签,其中猜测的是百合花图案。

Along with Mitchel Maer, for Dior house worked Henkel, Gross Kramer (New York) – one of the best jewelers in 1950-60-ies. Dior is also known as a manufacturer of jewelry under his own name. Love of Dior to the gardens and rural landscape in France has resulted in repetitive floral motif of wild flowers, roses and lilies. Ornaments in the form of animals, fish and unicorn – true masterpieces of design art, and are very rare. Most of Dior jewellery is dated and has a label in which is guessed lily motif.


1950-60-ies Vintage brooch. Gold tone alloy, glass cabochons, rhinestones

然而,迪奥并不打算创造历史。他只是想让女人再一次变得美丽。因此,他的 "新面貌 "可以被称为 "新怀旧"。迪奥模型的特点是精致简约。到1950年,迪奥已经成为法国文化出口的一个组成部分:75%的产品都有他的名字。他的系列的特点是突出的腰线和配件。迪奥的后续系列开始使用大量的面料,从而完全改变了轮廓。

However, Dior was not going to make history. He just wanted a woman to once again become beautiful. Therefore, his “New Look” could be called the “New nostalgia.” Dior Models featured refined simplicity. By 1950, Dior has become an integral part of the cultural export of France: 75% of the products had his name. Characteristic features of his collections were accentuated waistline and accessories. The following collections of Dior started to use a lot of fabric that allowed to completely change the silhouette.


Ring with blue topaz, Dior, the 1960s

克里斯蒂安-迪奥是一种使用大量材料、人工和装饰品的风格的开创者,他刺激了一些平行行业的发展:胸衣制造商、羽毛制造商、刺绣商、服装珠宝制造商、花卉设计师,还有插画师。因此,克里斯蒂安-迪奥创作的形象包括罗杰-维维耶的鞋子、布罗辛-德-梅尔的版画、布里维的薄纱、雷贝(Rene Begue)和乔治-巴比耶的面料、弗朗西斯-温特的珠宝和雷内-格鲁的绘画。至于皮草和帽子,则是在高级定制时装店的专门车间里制造的。

Originator of a style that used a large quantity of material, artifices, and ornaments, Christian Dior stimulated the growth of a number of parallel industries: corset makers, feather makers, embroiderers, makers of costume jewelry, flower designers, and also illustrators. Thus, the image of the creations of Christian Dior includes the shoes of ROGER Vivier, the prints of Brossin de Mere, the tulles of Brivet, the fabrics of Rebe (Rene Begue) and Georges Barbier, the jewels of Francis Winter, and the drawings of Rene Gruau. As for furs and hats, they were manufactured in specialized workshops of the couture house.


Galina Karputina collection. Yellow Vintage clips

克里斯蒂安-迪奥(Christian Dior)先后是一位前卫的业余爱好者,一位回归秩序的工匠,最后是一位优雅的制造商。作为第一个超级明星服装设计师,他在意大利的Bagni di Montecatini死于心脏病发作,年仅52岁。金融家马塞尔-布萨克(Marcel Boussac)当时想关闭品牌,但面对许可证持有人的压力,他任命年轻的助手伊夫-圣洛朗(Yves SAINT LAURENT)为艺术总监,这样一来,品牌就在其创始人的带领下生存了下来。当伊夫-圣洛朗于1960年离开时,马克-博汉接替了他的位置,并一直保持到1989年吉安弗兰科-费雷接手。他们的设计维护了高级时装的形象,与当代时尚的多种挑战和宣言保持距离。克里斯蒂安-迪奥的古典主义直到1997年约翰-加利亚诺的到来才被撼动,他恢复了迪奥自己建立的积极的媒体曝光。

Christian Dior was, in succession, an avant-garde amateur, an artisan of a kind of return to order, and, finally, a manufacturer of elegance. The first superstar couturier, he died of a heart attack at the age of fifty-two in Bagni di Montecatini, Italy. The financier Marcel Boussac thought at the time of closing the house, but in the face of pressure from license holders, he appointed the young assistant Yves Saint Laurent as artistic director, and in this way the label survived its founder. When Yves Saint Laurent left in 1960, Marc Bohan took his place and held it until Gianfranco Ferre took over in 1989. Their designs upheld the image of a couture distanced from the multiple challenges and manifestos of contemporary fashion. The classicism of Christian Dior was not shaken until the arrival in 1997 of John Galliano, who revived the active media exposure established by Dior himself.


Short pearl string and black dress. Beautiful models in New Look, 1950s


Frog brooch. 24 gold plated metal alloy, Swarovski crystals, art glass. 5 cm. 1980s


signature

Mitchel Maer for Dior:


1950s Diamante Vintage Earrings


1951 Gold tone necklace, brooch and earrings, Mitchel Maer. Artificial diamonds, enamel £ 1500-1800


A set of Necklace, bracelet and earrings, Mitchel Maer for Christian Dior. metal coated with rhodium, synthetic sapphire, rock crystal. Early 1950s. £ 1100-1300


Charming white enamel set of brooch and earrings in matt gold tone. Authentic 1950s


Gilt Gold Filigree Pink Brooch 1950s


M. Maer for Christian Dior, 1950s brooch, pin


Original Mitchel Maer diamante encrusted pin brooch, 1950. Estemated price $ 500


Rare Mitchel Maer Brooch for Dior, metal, gilding, aquamarine, rock crystal. 1951 £ 900-1100


Rhinestone, crystal, glass, faux sapphire, silver plated metal necklace


Silver metal bracelet with rhinestones. Late 1950s


Winged earrings, faux pearl, crystals, 1950s


Unicorn Brooch. Mitchel Maer for Dior. metal coated with rhodium, rhinestone. The mid-1950s. £ 170-190 RG. Christian Dior jewellery


Necklace and earrings, Mitchell Maer. lapis lazuli, cabochons, rhinestone, 1959. Christian Dior jewellery


Necklace, bracelet and earrings, Mitchell Maer. metal coated with rhodium, synthetic sapphire, rock crystal. Early 1950s. Christian Dior jewellery


Necklace and earrings. metal coated with rhodium, artificial rubies, rhinestone, 1959. Mitchell Maer

Christian Dior jewellery


Set of costume jewellery. 1950s Christian Dior New Look


Fashionable Christian Dior New Look, 1950s


Blue dress, shoes and bracelets. Christian Dior New Look, 1950s


Hollywood diva Ava Gardner and Christian Dior. New Look, 1950s


Ava Gardner wearing beautiful set of jewellery – necklace and clips. Christian Dior New Look, 1950s


Slim waist, corset, white gloves, black earrings, the contrast of black and white, and Victorian era ideas – this was the new look of 1950s by Christian Dior


Classic bow brooch, 1980s


Cat Vintage brooch


Gorgeous Vintage clips


Brooch in the form of eye-coated rhodium metal, cabochon, imitation pearls, rhinestone. The end of the 1950s.


Fish Brooch of metal, gold plated, fish scales – cast glass, cabochons eyes. 1968


Exquisite Brooch-pendant. Christian Dior jewellery, 1968


Crab. Impressive brooch, 1980s


Kramer vintage brooch, 1960s


Mitchell Maer Brooch for Dior, metal, gilding, aquamarine, rock crystal. 1951


Indian style necklace with pendant. Metal, gilding, artificial pearls, lapis lazuli, cabochons, rock crystal. 1970. 40.5 cm, pendant 9 cm. £ 250-300 RG


Pierrot vintage brooch. 1965. Gold tone jewelry alloy, rhinestones. 7.5 cm


The famous vintage brooches, made in the form of a bright bottles of perfume ‘Poison’. Made of green and red lucite with the effect of internal illumination. 4.8 cm

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